Bath – The Guide

Manor Cottages has been working on providing local area guides for key areas within the Cotswolds.

Our third guide is on the historic city of Bath. Visit our main website for the full guide.

The Guide Includes:

Days out: Things to do while visiting Bath

Eating Out: The best places to dine in Bath

Shopping: Find out were to shop in Bath

Walking: The best walking tours in Bath

History: A brief history of the city Bath

Cottage Locations: A brief overview of the best cottage locations

Accommodation: Are you looking to stay in the area?

We also have local guides on the Wye Valley & Stratford Upon Avon

Wye Valley – The Guide

Manor Cottages has been working on providing local area guides for key areas within the Cotswolds.

Our second guide is on the tranquil Wye Valley. Visit our main website for the full guide.

The Guide Includes:

Days out: Things to do while visiting the Wye Valley

Eating Out: The best places to dine in the Wye Valley

Shopping: Find out were to shop in the Wye Valley

Walking: The best walks in the Wye Valley

History: A brief history of the area called Wye Valley

Cottage Locations: A brief overview of idylic cottage locations

Accommodation: Are you looking to stay in the area?

We also have local guides on Bath & Stratford Upon Avon

Stratford upon Avon – The Guide

Manor Cottages has been working on providing local area guides for key areas within the Cotswolds.

Our first guide is on the beautiful Stratford Upon Avon. Visit our main website for the full guide.

The Guide Includes:

Days out: Things to do while visiting Stratford

Eating Out: The best places to dine in Stratford upon Avon

Shopping: Find out were to shop in Stratford

Walking: The best walks including the famous Ghost Walk in Stratford

History: A brief history of Stratford

We also have local guides on Bath & Wye Valley

The Cotswolds through the year

Having visited The Cotswolds during most months of the year and having never been disappointed, other than realising that I might have missed something really good a few weeks earlier or later, I thought there might be value in researching and outlining just a few of the calendar events which the area boasts. This is by no means a definitive list, but rather just a flavour of what might be on offer. Certainly there could be great value in carrying out a little research prior to choosing your destination. Such is the nature of The Cotswolds, that most places have their own website. If you are able to trawl round, then that could be of great benefit; should you not have access to the internet, then you will find Tourist Information Centres and your local library may be of help.

Below are just a few events on a month by month basis, several of which I can vouch for:

February sees the early festival season begin with the ‘Cheltenham Folk Festival’, which is normally lively and well attended. Those who enjoy some fresh air will find the ‘Snowdrop Sea’ at Rococo Gardens, Painswick both spellbinding and optimistic.

March finds the city of Bath hosting their annual Shakespeare Festival, with theatre, dance, comedy and music; and what a great opportunity to visit one of the world’s most gracious and elegant cities.

April sees the Shakespeare Birthday Celebration at Stratford-upon-Avon; a weekend festival with strolling players, musicians, Folk and Morris dancing, concerts, a Royal Shakespeare Company birthday performance, and even a grand charity ball.

May ushers in some elements of ‘silly season’ with the famed ‘Cheese Rolling’ down Cooper’s Hill in Gloucester, which mayhem has to be seen to be believed; not for the faint hearted, which is why I prefer to be a spectator. The Cheltenham International Jazz Festival features excellent worldwide contemporary jazz. The Badminton Horse Trials near Bath present the definitive 3 day event of cross country, dressage and show jumping. The Brampton Day of Dance sees Morris dancers parading through the village, whilst Chipping Campden hosts the infamous ‘Olympick Games’. Here you will see a plethora of old sports to include obstacle races, tug-of-war and the excruciating ‘shin-kicking’, together with torch lit parade, fun, frolics and entertainment; the following day sees ‘The Scuttlebrook Wake’ with yet more fun and shenanigans. The International Textile Festival is staged in Stroud, whilst Tetbury hosts the ‘Wool Sack Races’ and Street Fair; a truly spectacular day and mightily exhausting for the brave competitors. The Wychwood Music Festival at Cheltenham Racecourse is a notable weekend festival. There’s ‘Well Dressing’ at Bisley and the Blenheim Palace Jousting Tournament at Woodstock. Tewkesbury Food and Drink Festival is a must for all gourmets in the beautiful Abbey vineyards.

June sees the Bath International Music Festival and Fringe festival. Blenheim Flower Show is an essential for keen gardeners and onlookers, whilst Burford Dragon Parade sees some early history celebrations. ‘Wood Weekend’ at Cogges Manor Farm Museum features traditional crafts through the ages, whilst there’s Shakespeare in the Park at Blenheim (Woodstock).

July finds Longborough Festival Opera at Moreton-in-Marsh, and the Royal International Air Tattoo at Fairford is the world’s biggest military air show. Cheltenham International Festival of Music and Fringe is not to be missed; likewise the Gloucester Blues and Heritage Festival.

August sees the Living Heritage Oxfordshire Craft Fair at Blenheim Palace, The Gatcombe Horse Trials at the Princess Royal’s home near Tetbury, and the unmissable ‘Water Games’ at Bourton-on-the-Water.

September and there’s a traditional folk event at the ‘Painswick Ancient Clypping’ and literary celebrations at the Jane Austen Festival at Bath.

October welcomes ‘The Times Cheltenham Literature Festival’ – a 10 day affair of readings and performances.

November sees Christmas markets and festivals at Bath Abbey and at Warwick Castle.

December and year’s end sees concerts and carols in Bath at The Abbey and The Pump Room. There’s a Victorian Christmas Evening at Bourton-on-the-Water, and a ‘Christmas At Blenheim Palace’, which is totally enchanting.

Well, I hope the above have served to whet the appetite. Some further research will show these to be merely the tip of the iceberg in terms of the host of eclectic not to be missed events which make The Cotswolds such a remarkable treasure trove.

I’ll see you there, won’t I?

C Grimes.

A lucky dip into the Cotswolds

As promised in my earlier articles, I shall try to highlight just a few of the many treasures to be discovered in the delightful Cotswolds. I shall do so in no particular order, precedence or favour, as to compare one Cotswold village to another town or city, would be akin to comparing Constable to Mozart; in that each has a beauty beyond comparison. Likewise, I shall offer only ‘tasters’, which I hope may sponsor visitors to look further.

Painswick is some 6 miles south of Gloucester and lies perhaps mid-way along ‘The Cotswold Way’ footpath. Here you can walk up Painswick Beacon (height 283 metres) and take in astounding views of the Severn Estuary, the Brecon Beacons and the Malvern Hills. Painswick is home to the oldest village rugby club in England and is truly hospitable.

Northleach is a beautiful market town near Cheltenham, yet is nicely tucked away. Set upon a crossroads on the ancient Roman road – Fosse Way, this town, as with many, owes its heritage to the wool trade. One of my favourite oddities is ‘Keith Harding’s World of Mechanical Music’ with its amazing assembly of music boxes, barrel organs, etc.

Bath is a delightful World Heritage City, over which I have waxed lyrical on many occasions and in many articles. Roman Spa baths and much, much more. Grand, stately, yet vibrant. A true ‘not to be missed’ city.

Lechlade is an especially favourite town in Gloucestershire, where the River Leach joins with The Thames at its highest navigable point. From ‘Halfpenny Bridge’ the trading longboats and barges could (and still can) navigate downstream to London and beyond.

Witney this famed Oxfordshire town, standing on the River Windrush, had its name resoundingly built upon the eponymous woollen ‘Witney’ blankets which epitomised the wealthy heritage of The Cotswolds.

Chippenham this venerable Wiltshire market town is nowadays, to a degree, something of a commuter town, which in turn has enabled its unspoilt historical preservation. Just to sit beneath the shelter of the Buttercross and absorb the sympathetically pedestrianised ‘Shambles’ shopping area is an absolute oasis; although on Fridays and Saturdays there is a lively and vibrant market.

Woodstock (no, not that one) just north of Oxford, is not merely picturesque; follow Park Street down to Town Gate and discover a portal to the magnificent Blenheim Palace estate.

Malmesbury this Wiltshire town is viewed as sacred, with its hilltop springs, and the towering cliff sides adding drama to this, the oldest borough in England.

Winchcombe this fine town near Tewkesbury, Gloucestershire, is home to Sudeley Castle and sits astride six long distance footpath ‘ways’.

Lacock just three miles from Chippenham in Wiltshire and now almost entirely owned by ‘National Trust’; mentioned in the Domesday Book, this beautiful setting has featured in so many TV programmes and famous films. Truly outstanding.

Cheltenham magnificent and renowned in its own right, provides much should the visitor encounter a rainy day. The Art Gallery and Museum (Dedicated Status) houses the finest ‘Arts and Crafts’ movement items of fine furniture, metalwork, of which many were inspired by famed local craftsman William Morris. There are also many collections of English and Chinese pottery and porcelain and paintings by British and Dutch masters from the past three centuries. You may also choose to visit the birthplace and childhood home of composer Gustav Holst (‘The Planets’) and soak up the well preserved ambience of this Victorian home, packed with evocative memorabilia of gracious times. Or maybe a little retail therapy might fill the bill in the lively city centre.

There are a plenitude of glorious gardens to be found and seen throughout The Cotswolds, not least: Hidcote Manor Garden near Chipping Campden, Snowshill Manor near Broadway, Abbey House gardens near Malmesbury, the flamboyant Painswick Rococo Garden (enchanting), and Westonbirt Arboretum with its 17 miles of pathways among 600 acres of trees, magnificent in any season and which can be found near Tetbury, Gloucestershire.

Whatever your preference, you will agree that there’s much to justify more than one visit to the glorious Cotswolds.

C Grimes.

Off to the Cotswolds

So you have decided to visit the idyll that is The Cotswolds. Hopefully you have settled upon some suitable accommodation which will allow you the independence to get the greatest value from your stay. One might expect that your itinerary might involve car, bicycle and/or walking some of the many footpaths which offer routes to suit all abilities. By car you should have no difficulty in exploring the hundreds of miles of lanes which criss-cross the area. Whereas the excellent network of motorways can ensure easy access to your chosen ‘pied a terre’, you will be pleasantly surprised by the relative quietness of many of the rural roads.

Not all of the villages are well known – some are secret and off the beaten track. Without exception, each will offer treasure in its own right. In fairness, you might find satellite navigation to be a trifle outside its effective domain here. Instead, take advantage of the many maps and guidebooks available from ‘tourist information’ and other sources. Perhaps it would be good to avail yourself of these before setting off, but be prepared for the inevitability of being ‘sidetracked’ by unexpectedly enchanting places. Itineraries and plans often go out of the window here in The Cotswolds.

Whilst on the topic of our mode of transport, it is notable that as well as the normal signposts, The Cotswolds are extremely well served by the brown and white (white lettering on brown background) signs indicating attractions and places of interest. It may be worth considering arriving in the area by public transport, or even by plane if further afield, then hiring transport in the local vicinity. As well as all the well known car hire companies, there are places which offer classic and open-topped cars for hire, which might certainly enhance the experience. Similarly, bicycles may be hired by the hour, day or week; some service providers have fold-away cycles which may be stowed in the car boot for ad hoc forays, and some will deliver hire cycles to your holiday accommodation for the duration of your stay.

Tourists wishing for some initial structure might consider one of the ‘Romantic Roads’, of which there are two principal circular routes and which can be picked up at any point. Each village and market town will be of merit and would likely entails lots of stops and photos. The northerly route which I shall describe in a clockwise rotation touches into Prestbury > Winchcombe > Stanway > Stanton > Broadway > Snowshill > Chipping Campden > Broad Campden > Blockley > Moreton-in-Marsh > Stow-on-the-Wold > Lower Swell > Upper and Lower Slaughter > Naunton > Andoversford > Cheltenham.

The southerly route, again in clockwise rotation would embrace Dowdeswell > Withington > Yanworth > Northleach > Sherborne > Little Barrington > Burford > Filkins > Lechlade > Fairford > Coln St Aldwyns > Bibury > Arlington > Bamsley > Cirencester > Bisley > Painswick > Great Witcombe > Cheltenham.

I shall endeavour to fill out some of the above with a few bare bones in the next article. However it should be suffice to say that each has its own charms and many would merit a good few hours in their own right.

For ramblers or mere wanderers such as myself, there are walks of varying length and suited to various abilities; details of these can be easily researched and selected. ‘The Cotswold Way’ is a long distance walking trail and has been nominated as a ‘National Trail’ since 2007. At 102 miles long, stretching from Chipping Campden in the north to the beautiful World Heritage City of Bath in the south, this is a serious walk. However, for those who may have less than a week to commit to one path, there are many circular walks of varying lengths and degrees of challenge, which again may be researched and all of which are designated as to suitability, difficulty and accessibility for individuals who may have limited mobility.

Yet again, you are hopefully getting an idea of the immense banquet of sight-seeing and experience here in The Cotswolds. That’s why so many people return year upon year for their bite sized chunks of this beauteous region.

C Grimes

The Cotswolds

Were you to chat with anybody who has visited The Cotswolds, whether for a short or long stay, and they would with total certainty bombard you with superlatives: – picturesque, beautiful, enchanting, unspoilt, etc.

Should you ask anyone who has not yet been to this gem of the English countryside, they would likely say that they have heard good things, but by the same token might be unsure of the actual whereabouts.

Ask someone who lives in The Cotswolds and you might receive a mixed reception, dependent upon their view of you. Residents are justifiably very proud of their area – some might even be a trifle secretive and precious about their homeland. Certainly, all would have rightful cause to celebrate their good fortune in residing in this absolute gemstone of an area.

So where are The Cotswolds? A thumbnail sketch would describe a loosely triangular area formed by the M5 and M42 at the west, the M40 at the east and the M4 at the southerly base, but to include peripheral areas beyond these motorways, such as Bath, Chippenham, Lacock, Tewkesbury, to name but a few.

The name ‘Cotswolds’ translates as a pleasantly rolling hill landscape, intersected by springs, streams and meandering rivers and a maze of rural roads and lanes. It is an area which has fortunately been protected to a great degree by careful and sympathetic planning limitations and management. This in turn has ensured the preservation of the typical and essential Cotswold ambience. The gentle hills, woodland and green fields are kindly augmented by pathways and lanes, which connect a host of beautiful villages and market towns. The predominant building features boast the local limestone materials, almost yellow in places, used to form walls, floors and even roofs. This same material is utilised in the many ‘dry-stone’ walls which surround the picture-book fields. These walls reflect a high degree of skill, being, as they are, created without mortar, which in turn allows a degree of mobility whilst still ensuring an effective enclosure.

Most of the Cotswold area has its roots firmly in agriculture, with the rearing of sheep and the wool trade being historically formative for the region. This has in equal measure ensured a firm foundation of associated wealth, together with a natural tendency toward the pastoral ambience which has thankfully prevailed in the area. Cotswold sheep were traditionally of a robust nature, prized for their heavy fleece, which was in turn of high quality and practicality. The attendant growth of the wealthy traders was reflected in the establishment of fine houses and some truly remarkable and beautiful churches – often referred to as ‘wool churches’.

By now, it is my hope that the reader may be gaining an early flavour of this Cotswold magic. So how does one set about a voyage of discovery? The truth is, that to get the best value, one should allocate plenty of time, and alongside this, a relaxed frame of mind. As with a fine wine or a Michelin starred meal, a visit to The Cotswolds must not be rushed.

I have heard people describing having ‘been to The Cotswolds on a coach trip’. Whilst not gainsaying their snapshot of the area, what is certain is that such a fleeting glimpse could never do full justice to this wondrous area. Ideally one should consider staying in the area, probably with the freedom of self-determination afforded by a self catering rented flat or property; then off exploring by car, bicycle or on foot. This is not a tiny patch of countryside we are considering here; realistically in excess of two thousand square miles. Give yourself time, a degree of planning, with the option of varying those plans (because you won’t see it all in just one visit); add some comfy shoes and clothing and off you go. Enjoy yourself and I’ll look to add some more helpful guidelines later.

C Grimes.

Westonbirt Arboretum is always worth visiting just to see the trees that are an essential part of the venue.  But there is another reason for paying a visit on the weekend of Saturday and Sunday the 20^th and 21^st of February.  This is when the Dog Days event takes place.

This will be the fifth year that the Dog Days event will take over the Westonbirt Arboretum, and lots of dog owners and lovers have plenty of reasons for wanting to go along and see the fun.  For those that take part there is the opportunity to try and win the regional heat of the much loved Scruffts competition.  As the name would suggest, this isn’t Crufts but instead it is the cross breed version of it.

One of the great things about the Dog Days event is the range of competitions and courses you will find there.  There is a dog agility course if your own dog is up for the challenge, and you can also enjoy watching the dog and ferret racing which takes place on the Saturday.

So if you happen to be taking your pooch on holiday to the Cotswolds with you that weekend break, why not pop along to Westonbirt Arboretum to see what is going on there?  You can attend on one or both days, but it certainly provides a nice event to add to any Cotswolds holiday.  Since the area does have pet friendly places to stay, providing Cotswolds accommodation of many kinds, try and find somewhere nearby that allows you to add the Arboretum into your holiday itinerary.

One of the nicest parts of Westonbirt Arboretum is Silk Wood.  And the Dog Days event will see a guided walk through the woods on both days, starting off at 11am and 2pm as well, if you would prefer to go and walk off your lunch rather than building up an appetite for it!

The cost of entry to the Dog Days event is £7 for adults, and children get in cheaper at just £3 per ticket.  You don’t have to book in advance either, so it is quite possible to get up and decide which of the two days you want to attend on.  It certainly helps to have good weather so keep an eye on the forecast for the day and make your decision from there – particularly if you have other Cotswolds attractions on your list of things to see while you are in the area.

The Westonbirt Arboretum is nice and easy to find too.  It isn’t far from either the M4 or M5 motorways, and it is located just three miles outside of Tetbury in a south westerly direction.  Tetbury is south west of Cirencester too on the A433 so it is nicely located if you want to go and explore some more of the local area once you have finished at the Dog Days event.

So if you and your dog have nothing else planned for that weekend in February, why not come along?

How arty are you?  If you love seeing other people’s efforts at creating artwork you’ll want to come along to Cirencester during January and right through until the end of February.  It gives you the chance to spend part of your Cotswolds holiday in a slightly different manner, showing you locals at work creating some interesting and fascinating art.

Cirencester itself is just over half an hour away from Gloucester, taking a steady drive in a south easterly direction.  It is also less than fourteen miles away from Lechlade, if you happen to be staying in a Cotswolds cottage in that particular area.  And there are lots of other holiday cottages Cotswolds based around that area too, so wherever you are staying in the Cotswolds area you won’t be too far away from the exhibition.

You will find it in the New Brewery Arts Centre in Brewery Court in Cirencester, and what’s more they make no charge to anyone wanting to see the exhibition.  It is quite well known locally as it looks at art in a more light hearted way than some other art galleries do.

So what can you expect when you arrive?  Well when you discover that the exhibition is called Art Couples it might give you a clue what to expect.  These artworks are all created by couples.  Some artists habitually work with someone else most of the time, whereas others are not so used to the process.  But whether each couple in the exhibition is used to it or not, this way of working has produced some interesting and fascinating works for people to look at.

There are fifteen couples whose works have been displayed for the Art Couples season at the New Brewery Arts Centre, and no doubt you will find some more appealing than others.  But being able to see how different people work together to create one piece of art is never less than fascinating.

The website shows all kinds of pieces of art as well, and not just those which are made with paint and canvas.  Ornamental pieces and statues are also included and the whole feeling is one of enjoyment and excitement at what has been produced.  The event is known to be somewhat tongue in cheek, so you can go along and simply have fun looking at all the artworks that have been created.

As mentioned above the centre is in Brewery Court, and this is located just off Cricklade Street in Cirencester.  There are various parking facilities in Cirencester itself, and indeed the website points to the long stay car park which is situated in Sheep Street.  It is then just a short walk to get around into Cricklade Street and through to Brewery Court itself.

So if you are heading up to the Cotswolds to stay in one of their countryside cottages in the next few weeks and you want to see and do something slightly different, why not give the New Brewery Arts Centre in Cirencester a try?  You might just love what you find there.

No matter where you are living in the country, the chances are good that the mention of snowdrops makes you think of the white stuff.  This is the worst winter we have seen in this country for nearly thirty years, and there is no sign of any let up just yet either.

But if you are anywhere near the Cotswolds on the last two days of January you would be advised to come along to Colesbourne Park.  If you do you will be able to see some real snowdrops – and they are quite a sight.

UK holidays in the Cotswolds at this wintry time of year can produce some stunning views.  And Colesbourne Park, just east of Gloucester and slightly to the south west of Bourton on the Water, is an excellent place to see an outstanding display of snowdrops.

At the start of every year, from the end of January and right through to the end of February, you can expect to see a riotous display of snowdrops at the park.  People come along to see what are known as the Snowdrop Weekends, and no matter what you might be doing as the New Year kicks off, you can surely find a spare afternoon to visit.

There are five weekends on which the park is open for this event, including the last weekend in January.  Don’t make any plans for the afternoon between 1pm and 4.30pm if you are organising a cheap UK holiday in the Cotswolds for that time, because the park is only open between those hours.  This will give you plenty of time to explore and appreciate the display though, whatever the weather might be doing.  You might be interested to know that the Colesbourne Park website has a link through to the weather forecast for the area, so do keep that in mind if the inclement weather continues.

If you have a group you would like to bring along you can do that too – and you can even enjoy a private tour of the snowdrops if you wish.  There must be at least twenty people in your group for this to be possible, and if there are you should be able to book something during the week.

If you like the idea of escaping for a weekend break in the Cotswolds to get away from that ‘back to work’ feeling, why not arrange it for one of these weekends so you can see the snowdrops as well?  It would make a lovely present for your other half, and it is a superb way to kick off the New Year in style too.

There are plenty of options when it comes to booking accommodation in the Cotswolds.  You’ll find a tempting selection of English country cottages dotted around nearby too, so whatever you want to do and wherever you want to stay, you won’t have far to travel to see the snowdrops that mark the beginning of a new year.