The Cotswolds

Were you to chat with anybody who has visited The Cotswolds, whether for a short or long stay, and they would with total certainty bombard you with superlatives: – picturesque, beautiful, enchanting, unspoilt, etc.

Should you ask anyone who has not yet been to this gem of the English countryside, they would likely say that they have heard good things, but by the same token might be unsure of the actual whereabouts.

Ask someone who lives in The Cotswolds and you might receive a mixed reception, dependent upon their view of you. Residents are justifiably very proud of their area – some might even be a trifle secretive and precious about their homeland. Certainly, all would have rightful cause to celebrate their good fortune in residing in this absolute gemstone of an area.

So where are The Cotswolds? A thumbnail sketch would describe a loosely triangular area formed by the M5 and M42 at the west, the M40 at the east and the M4 at the southerly base, but to include peripheral areas beyond these motorways, such as Bath, Chippenham, Lacock, Tewkesbury, to name but a few.

The name ‘Cotswolds’ translates as a pleasantly rolling hill landscape, intersected by springs, streams and meandering rivers and a maze of rural roads and lanes. It is an area which has fortunately been protected to a great degree by careful and sympathetic planning limitations and management. This in turn has ensured the preservation of the typical and essential Cotswold ambience. The gentle hills, woodland and green fields are kindly augmented by pathways and lanes, which connect a host of beautiful villages and market towns. The predominant building features boast the local limestone materials, almost yellow in places, used to form walls, floors and even roofs. This same material is utilised in the many ‘dry-stone’ walls which surround the picture-book fields. These walls reflect a high degree of skill, being, as they are, created without mortar, which in turn allows a degree of mobility whilst still ensuring an effective enclosure.

Most of the Cotswold area has its roots firmly in agriculture, with the rearing of sheep and the wool trade being historically formative for the region. This has in equal measure ensured a firm foundation of associated wealth, together with a natural tendency toward the pastoral ambience which has thankfully prevailed in the area. Cotswold sheep were traditionally of a robust nature, prized for their heavy fleece, which was in turn of high quality and practicality. The attendant growth of the wealthy traders was reflected in the establishment of fine houses and some truly remarkable and beautiful churches – often referred to as ‘wool churches’.

By now, it is my hope that the reader may be gaining an early flavour of this Cotswold magic. So how does one set about a voyage of discovery? The truth is, that to get the best value, one should allocate plenty of time, and alongside this, a relaxed frame of mind. As with a fine wine or a Michelin starred meal, a visit to The Cotswolds must not be rushed.

I have heard people describing having ‘been to The Cotswolds on a coach trip’. Whilst not gainsaying their snapshot of the area, what is certain is that such a fleeting glimpse could never do full justice to this wondrous area. Ideally one should consider staying in the area, probably with the freedom of self-determination afforded by a self catering rented flat or property; then off exploring by car, bicycle or on foot. This is not a tiny patch of countryside we are considering here; realistically in excess of two thousand square miles. Give yourself time, a degree of planning, with the option of varying those plans (because you won’t see it all in just one visit); add some comfy shoes and clothing and off you go. Enjoy yourself and I’ll look to add some more helpful guidelines later.

C Grimes.